Yield: about 1½ quarts
Style: traditional kulfi flavor, churned into a creamy, scoopable ice cream
Ingredients
- 2 cups (480 g) whole milk
- 100 g frozen unsweetened mawa/khoya, thawed and finely grated
- 1 cup (240 g) malai
- ¾ cup (180 g) heavy cream
- ½ cup (150 g) sweetened condensed milk
- ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar
- 1½ Tbsp (12 g) cornstarch
- ¼ tsp fine salt
- 8–10 green cardamom pods
- 20–25 saffron threads, generously pinched
- ⅓ cup (40–45 g) unsalted pistachios, finely chopped
Before you start
Thaw the mawa in the refrigerator until soft enough to grate. Don't worry if it is somewhat crumbly.
For the most traditional flavor, use unsalted, raw or lightly roasted pistachios rather than heavily roasted/salted ones.
1. Infuse the milk
Crush the cardamom pods lightly with the side of a knife and remove the seeds.
Grind the cardamom seeds fairly finely.
Put the milk, ground cardamom and saffron into a medium saucepan.
Heat over medium-low heat until the milk is steaming but do not boil.
Remove from the heat and let it steep for 15–20 minutes.
2. Cook the mawa into the milk
Add the grated mawa to the warm infused milk.
Return the saucepan to medium-low heat and whisk frequently until the mawa has completely dissolved.
Continue cooking gently for 7–10 minutes, stirring frequently.
The mixture should become noticeably richer and slightly reduced. You aren't trying to reduce it dramatically—the goal is to develop that cooked, concentrated dairy flavor of traditional kulfi.
If you see the milk beginning to stick to the bottom, lower the heat.
3. Make the thickening slurry
While the mawa mixture is cooking, whisk together in a small bowl:
- sugar
- milk powder
- cornstarch
- salt
Add about ½ cup of the warm milk mixture and whisk until completely smooth.
Pour this slurry back into the saucepan while whisking.
Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, for about 2–4 minutes, until the mixture thickens enough to lightly coat a spoon.
Don't cook it to pudding thickness.
4. Add the malai and cream
Remove the saucepan from the heat.
Whisk in:
- malai
- heavy cream
- condensed milk
If your malai has stubborn lumps, an immersion blender can make the base completely smooth.
At this point, taste the base.
It should taste a little sweeter and more intensely flavored than you want the finished ice cream to taste. Freezing will mute both sweetness and spice.
If using rose water, add 1 tsp now. I would actually make the first batch without it so the saffron, cardamom, pistachio and cooked dairy remain the dominant flavors.
5. Chill completely
Transfer the mixture to a container.
Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight.
This is important. The milk solids and starch will continue hydrating as the base chills, and the very cold base will churn into a much better texture.
Once thoroughly chilled, whisk or briefly blend the base again.
6. Add the pistachios
Reserve 1–2 Tbsp of the chopped pistachios for topping.
Stir the remaining pistachios into the cold base.
I prefer adding them before churning rather than all at the end because some pieces become distributed throughout the ice cream while others remain pleasantly concentrated.
7. Churn
Pour the cold base into your ice cream maker.
Churn according to your machine's instructions, stopping when the ice cream has reached a very thick soft-serve consistency.
Because of the high milk-solid content from the mawa and malai, it may become quite thick toward the end.
8. Harden
Transfer immediately to a shallow, freezer-safe container.
Press a piece of parchment or plastic wrap directly against the surface and cover.
Freeze for approximately 3–5 hours, until firm enough to scoop.
Sprinkle the reserved pistachios over the top before serving.
For the best texture, let it sit at room temperature for 5–10 minutes before scooping.
What you should get
The flavor should be much closer to classic pistachio-saffron kulfi than conventional pistachio ice cream:
- concentrated, cooked-milk flavor from the mawa
- rich fresh dairy character from the malai
- dense creaminess without an egg-custard flavor
- prominent cardamom and saffron
- little pops of pistachio throughout
- enough overrun from churning to make it scoopable rather than frozen-solid kulfi